Ski & Snow

An International Guide to the World of Après-Ski

Whether you're looking for Champagne showers in Austria or sticky-floored dives in Montana, we've got the rundown of where to go (and what to drink). 
Magnificent mountain range in bright sunlight with skiers in the foreground.
Luca Sage/Getty

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The classic 1963 caper Charade opens on an après-ski scene in the French ski town of Megève. As the camera pans over skiers pouncing down powdery slopes, it finds Audrey Hepburn on a sunny outdoor terrace, elegantly clad in a black-and-brown Givenchy ensemble. A half-empty glass of wine sits in front of her as she daintily drops two lumps of sugar into an espresso and composedly discusses an imminent divorce from her wealthy yet distant husband. It’s almost too chic.

Back in reality, my own après-ski experiences have been very, very distant from Hepburn’s fictional French jaunt. Think less Givenchy and more fight songs, shot skis, and floors so sticky with evaporated beer that a ski boot could get stuck on them. It bears mentioning: Although what I do after a long day of skiing in North America might seem the opposite of what Ms. Hepburn does in the Alps, they’re equal players in the après-ski game.

The practices and customs around après-ski vary from place to place in ways both minuscule and profound, but they’re an essential part of experiencing ski culture wherever you go. Wherever your ski travels take you this season, be sure to brush up on your local etiquette, because nothing—absolutely nothing!—could be more ghastly than showing up to après at the Kulm Hotel in St. Moritz and fumbling the correct number of cheek kisses (to be clear, it’s two in that part of Switzerland). For a dose of expert insight, we asked Myka Meier, founder of Beaumont Etiquette, the exclusive finishing program of The Plaza in New York City, for her advice.

First, she urges, learn a little native lingo. “Learning to say ‘please' and ‘thank you’ in the native language shows respect to the country and culture you are in, and will make the après-Champagne flow a bit faster,” says Meier. And watch your gear: "Wherever you go, keep helmets and bulky accessories off the tables and on seats, benches, or in lockers instead," she says. "Tuck your glove and goggles away inside your helmet and take out your favorite fluffy head warmer and sunglasses that were tucked inside your jacket instead."

Most importantly, no matter if you’re grabbing a Japanese hot toddy in Hokkaido or cracking open a Heady Topper IPA at Sugarbush in Vermont, the best way to radiate élan and elegance at après-ski is to pace yourself, says Meier. “Just remember your body processes alcohol much faster in high altitudes, so beware to not be overserved.”

We’ve put together a selection of the most salient après-ski destinations around the world—where to go, what to drink, and how to behave (or not)—so that you can walk into any room without seeming like a total Jerry (and if you don’t know what a Jerry is, you probably are one).

All listings featured in this story are independently selected by our editors. However, when you book something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Head to Aspen's Cloud Nine for a rowdy Veuve-fueled afternoon party.

Alamy

United States

Drink of choice: Sip of Sunshine IPA on the East Coast; Coors in the Rockies

The variety of regional ski cultures and après-ski cultures in the U.S. reflects its extreme diversity. On one end, you have Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro. Located mid-mountain at Aspen, it’s become a notorious high-elevation party destination. Although a spokesperson for the resort recently tried to persuade me that Cloud Nine is a mere lunch spot before skiers continue on their merry way, the Champagne-soaked, dance-filled videos on Instagram say otherwise.

The country is also dotted with nostalgic, no-frills, unassuming dive bars where après ski is less about how much Champagne you can spritz, and more about love of the game. Out East, the Matterhorn Ski Bar at Sunday River in Maine is decked out with vintage skis and assorted paraphernalia. Locals and visitors alike pile in on weekend nights for the live music, and the brick oven garlic knots are one of the tastiest snacks in the state.

Out West, the Bierstube at Montana’s Whitefish Mountain Resort is another classic. Every Wednesday, in a tradition dating back almost 60 years, the ski patrol gives out Frabert Awards to the person who embarrassed themselves the most on the slopes that week. In a time when lift ticket prices are skyrocketing and resorts seem to focus more on selling condos than making the sport accessible to all, the Frabert Awards are nostalgic for a time when skiing was about skiing and people would come together après-ski to share their love of the sport.

Canada

Drink of choice: A tall, frosty Molson Canadian pale lager

Ahh, our neighbors to the North. They look like us, they talk like us (most of them, at least), and—relative to the rest of the world—their culture is pretty similar to ours. But don’t be fooled, après-ski north of the 49th parallel has a distinct flavor unto itself. It’s a little grittier, a little more beer-centric—and don’t forget about the poutine. There are, of course, more elevated spots like Velvet Restaurant and Lounge inside the Josie Hotel at Red Mountain Resort in Rossland, B.C. (Velvet’s chef Marc-André Choquette is an Iron Chef alum and has worked at some of Canada’s top restaurants), and Whistler’s iconic Garibaldi Lift Co. is a unique synthesis of lounge, restaurant, and nightclub.

But perhaps no après spot is more emblematic of Canada’s come-as-you-are vibe than Rafters at Red Mountain Resort, one of the continent’s oldest ski areas, dating back to the early 1900’s. Its instantly recognizable A-frame layout has barely changed over the years, and the walls are filled with photographs and race posters of people skiing Red, including a shrine to the local “Old Bastards Ski Club.” On any given afternoon, you’ll see posh Vancouverites and lumberjack locals rubbing elbows at the bar. When you’re here, you truly feel connected to the history and culture of this resort.

Watch snow polo on the iced-over lake from the Carlton's terrace.

Courtesy Tschuggen Hotel Group / Photo by Gian Andri Giovanoli

Switzerland

Drink of choice: An extravagant glass of Champagne

Long considered Europe’s most elegant (and expensive) ski destination, Switzerland takes pride in its luxurious, refined approach to après-ski. As a country with a tradition of excellent, high-end hotels, it should come as no surprise that’s where a lot of the après action goes down. In St. Moritz, for example, the Carlton Hotel’s outdoor Sun Terrace offers prime views over the lake, where you can order a bottle of champagne and watch snow polo played on the ice—you may just have to contend with a few fur coat–clad ladies in order to snag a table. “Après-ski here is all about seeing people and being seen by people,” says a Swiss insider from the Carlton. “It’s more of a nice chat among friends and way to relax rather than a big party—there’s no dancing on tables, for example.”

For something (marginally) less chi-chi, however, check out the sun terrace at the Hôtel Salastrains. It’s slightly elevated from the heart of St. Moritz town–skiers can simply ski up to the entrance, or non-skiers can take a quick funicular ride from town up to the access road. It offers warm sunlight in spades (on a March visit last year I sat there, outdoors, for hours in just a t-shirt, and got a substantial sunburn), all the Champagne you can stomach, and classic Engadin Valley fare.

Austria

Drink of choice: Stiegl, Austria’s favorite beer since 1492

If it’s a rowdy après-ski you’re after—particularly of the table-dancing variety—then consider Austria’s Tyrolean Alps. As the birthplace of modern skiing, a passion for ski culture runs deep here, and the après-ski scene rivals the nightlife of any city. The winter circuit is typically bookended by two music festivals: RaveOnSnow in Saalbach in December and Snowbombing in Mayrhofen in April, but every weekend at MooserWirt in St. Anton brings the party, too. Skiers typically ski hard until a late lunch at 2 or 3 in the afternoon, after which said lunch turns into a day-drinking affair. The terrain here is notoriously steep and challenging, and having an elevation hangover isn’t going to make it any easier, so proceed with caution. 

If you’re a foodie, however, and in search of a (somewhat) less rowdy après scene, check out the idyllic village of Lech. The town’s restaurants have a staggering number of Gault Millau points (the gold standard of restaurant ratings in Europe), and classic favorites like the elegant Almhof Scheider have been family-owned and operated for generations. But there’s such a great culture of hospitality and après-ski hospitality, specifically, that anywhere you go in this country, you’re bound to eat and drink your fill. Prost!

Hot tubs are the main après attraction in Portillo, Chile.

Courtesy Ski Portillo 

Chile

Drink of choice: Pisco sour

As a South American destination, Chile offers a unique blend of European influence and New World attitude. Things tend to err on the more refined side, while maintaining a relaxed vibe—for some reason, grabbing a Pisco sour and heading straight to the nearest outdoor hot tub is the most popular thing to do. After skiing the active volcano at Nevados de Chillan, guests congregate at the resort’s natural hot springs. At Portillo, there is a Instagram-worthy hot tub overlooking the iconic Laguna del Inca. And at Valle Nevado, the hot tub is so large, it features an overhead volleyball net that can turn quite competitive, especially after a few drinks.

Georgia

Drink of choice: A shot or three of chacha

Don’t overlook the Caucasus, where the terrain is steep, the powder deep, and there is immense value relative to other European ski destinations. And thanks to Rooms Hotels, the mountain towns of Kazbegi and Kokhta now have design-centric destination hotels of their own, each offering sweeping mountain views, spas to treat those tired legs, and farm-to-table restaurants.

As for the après-ski scene, indulge in a couple shots of chacha, a type of brandy made from the grape mash leftover from winemaking, and then soak it all up with khachapuri, a hot, gooey mass of eggs and cheese on bread that’s part fondue, part deep dish pizza. Be prepared for après-ski to go late. “Such gatherings carry on well into the night and are filled with hearty conversations and experience sharing,” says Levan Berulava, managing director of the Adjara Group, which owns Rooms Hotels. “The wild Georgian nature and the grand Caucasus mountains are what make the local skiing experience truly unique.”

Take to an onsen for a relaxing post-ski experience.

Courtesy The Green Leaf Niseko Village

Japan

Drink of choice: Sapporo Classic, or a Suntory whisky hot toddy

Hokkaido is the choose-your-own-adventure of après-ski with three distinct options in increasing levels of energy. On the relaxing end of the spectrum is the onsen, a traditional Japanese hot spring where the volume never really gets above a respectful whisper (many hotel’s offer their own onsen, or can direct you to the closest one). The middle-of-the-road option is to chow down at an izakaya, where you can indulge in craft cocktails, fine Japanese whiskies, and some of the most satisfying ramen you’ll find anywhere—around mid-afternoon is when the crowds start to get lively. Finally, if you’re looking for a high-octane night out, there are also a number of Western-style bars in the major resort towns, like Wild Bill’s in Hirafu. While a sports bar serving up fish tacos and chicken wings may not be the most traditionally Japanese thing, it does attract a rowdy crowd of travelers from all over the world (mostly Australians). After all, isn’t a good après-ski about who you meet along the way?