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Baltimore area restaurants face ‘hardest time’ yet amid coronavirus crisis as officials urge renewed restrictions

  • The Urban Oyster closed this July, about a year after...

    Christina Tkacik / Baltimore Sun

    The Urban Oyster closed this July, about a year after it opened in the McHenry Row space formerly occupied by Ruby 8 Noodles & Sushi. Owner Jasmine Norton said in a Facebook post, said she will continue to serve in pop-up locations "until our new permanent location is determined."

  • The Rams Head Group announced in May that it would...

    Nate Pesce/Baltimore Sun Media Group

    The Rams Head Group announced in May that it would close its location in Savage rather than renew the 20-year-lease on the historic mill where it was located.

  • The Lobo bar and restaurant in Fells Point will close...

    Kim Hairston/The Baltimore Sun

    The Lobo bar and restaurant in Fells Point will close after six years of operation, the latest city establishment to close its doors due to the ongoing coronavirus pandemic.

  • Dick's Last Resort in Baltimore's Power Plant closed for good...

    Jerry Jackson/Baltimore Sun

    Dick's Last Resort in Baltimore's Power Plant closed for good in September after 10 years in Baltimore's Power Plant. .

  • After 34 years in Fells Point, the Greene Turtle closed...

    Posted by Brian Murphy, Community Contributor

    After 34 years in Fells Point, the Greene Turtle closed in the end of June. Owner Bill Packo's Facebook post announcing the closure did not state whether the coronavirus had contributed to the decision. Packo's wife, Jill Packo, also owned Towson's Greene Turtle, which shuttered its doors in April after 16 years and reopened as The Backyard Uptown.

  • Clyde's of Columbia shuttered July 19. The restaurant first opened...

    Amy Davis, Baltimore Sun photo

    Clyde's of Columbia shuttered July 19. The restaurant first opened in 1975 near Columbia's Lake Kittamaqundi. "It breaks our heart to be closing, but after several years of struggling sales, the pandemic and the challenges music venues are now facing as a result, 2020 has dealt us a blow we simply cannot overcome," John McDonnell, chief operating officer of Clyde's Restaurant Group, said in a statement.

  • Jaxon Edwin Social House, one of the three renovated Ellicott...

    Brian Krista/Baltimore Sun Media Group

    Jaxon Edwin Social House, one of the three renovated Ellicott City businesses featured on celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay's "24 Hours to Hell and Back" earlier this year, has closed. Owner Jeff Braswell announced the closure in a Facebook post, saying, in part, that the combination barbershop, coffee bar and game room had to shut down due to the coronavirus pandemic just a few days after reopening from the Ramsay renovation.

  • "It breaks our hearts to say farewell, but since there...

    Lloyd Fox, Baltimore Sun

    "It breaks our hearts to say farewell, but since there is so much sadness in the world already, let's focus on the remarkable success this once little coffee shop (founded September 1994) became," owners Bruce Bodie and Gino Cardinale announced in an Instagram post in May.

  • Housed in an 18th century mansion, the Milton Inn in...

    Barbara Haddock Taylor, Baltimore Sun

    Housed in an 18th century mansion, the Milton Inn in Sparks was a fixture of Baltimore County's dining scene going back 70 years. In a statement posted to the restaurant's website in June, chef and owner Brian Boston, who took over in 1997, wrote: "Unfortunately, the COVID 19 pandemic was one challenge I couldn't overcome. Our financial losses are overwhelming and I find it impossible to re-open."

  • After nearly three decades in Little Italy and recent backing...

    Barbara Haddock Taylor / Baltimore Sun

    After nearly three decades in Little Italy and recent backing from former Ravens player Ray Lewis, owners of Ciao Bella called it quits. "We wanted to give it one last try. We all tried very hard to bring it back to life, however, for obvious reasons we were not able to continue," they wrote in a July 2 Facebook post.

  • "This is not how I envisioned it all coming to...

    Sun photo by Erik Maza

    "This is not how I envisioned it all coming to an end but not all stories have a happy ending," Matt Helme, the owner of the Mt. Vernon eatery wrote in a June Facebook post announcing the closure of his restaurant after 11 years.

  • "I think this might be the hardest time," said Helena...

    Amy Davis / Baltimore Sun

    "I think this might be the hardest time," said Helena del Pesco (pictured in 2019), chef and owner of Larder, a farm to table eatery in Old Goucher.

  • Chez Hugo, a French-focused restaurant in downtown Baltimore, announced July...

    Lloyd Fox / Baltimore Sun

    Chez Hugo, a French-focused restaurant in downtown Baltimore, announced July 22 that it would close. In a statement posted to Facebook, owners Steve Monnier and Scott Helm attributed the decision to the restricted capacity at restaurants and "an understandable reluctance on the part of diners to visit indoor restaurants."

  • Pen and Quill, or "P&Q" for short, opened 6 years...

    Colby Ware, For The Baltimore Sun

    Pen and Quill, or "P&Q" for short, opened 6 years ago in the former Chesapeake Restaurant space. Owners announced in early July that the Station North eatery would close permanently.

  • Following an extensive renovation of one of Downtown Baltimore's oldest...

    Amy Davis / Baltimore Sun

    Following an extensive renovation of one of Downtown Baltimore's oldest surviving buildings, the Alexander Brown Restaurant was one of the most anticipated openings in recent city memory. But owners shuttered it this May. Jess Anderson, brand and public relations director for Oxford Commons, the Florida group that owned the restaurant, said "it was not sustainable" for the Alexander Brown to be closed for such a long period of time.

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While public health officials are looking to staunch the rise of COVID-19 cases in Maryland by limiting indoor dining in the state, a trade association representing state restaurants warns that would further damage the economy.

And in the Baltimore area, where numerous eateries have already closed permanently because of the coronavirus, business owners say they worry their problems are about to get worse. They’re calling for government help.

“I think this might be the hardest time,” said Helena del Pesco, chef and owner of Larder, a farm to table eatery in Old Goucher. “Everyone’s [Paycheck Protection Program loan] has run out. Grants have run out.”

Sergio Vitale, chef and owner of Aldo’s Ristorante Italiano in Little Italy, predicts a new wave of restaurant closures is soon to follow as businesses deplete their funding through the federally funded Paycheck Protection Program.

On Monday, health officials sent a letter to the state’s deputy health secretary urging a moratorium on indoor dining in bars and restaurants, allowing only al fresco options and carryout.

The letter, signed by the health officers from Baltimore City and the counties of Anne Arundel, Baltimore, Howard, Montgomery and Prince George’s, cited increased daily case totals, transmission rates and hospitalizations in various jurisdictions.

In Baltimore, numerous restaurants have closed in recent weeks after employees tested positive for COVID-19, the disease caused by the coronavirus. Some health experts have said that proves indoor dining remains unsafe because of the risk of transmission of the coronavirus. Baltimore Mayor Bernard C. “Jack” Young on Wednesday announced the city would suspend indoor dining for two weeks starting this Friday.

Dr. Tom Inglesby, a top infectious disease expert at Johns Hopkins University and adviser to Gov. Larry Hogan, criticized Hogan’s decision to reopen bars and restaurants in June. He pointed to states like Arizona, California, Florida and Texas, which had experienced spikes in cases after reopening. All have since reimposed restrictions on indoor dining.

Hogan said in an appearance on C-SPAN2 on Tuesday that it’s too soon to tighten restrictions.

“Our goal would be to try to keep business open and the economy unless it’s absolutely necessary,” he said.

In a statement, Marshall Weston Jr., CEO and president of the Restaurant Association of Maryland, said that “going backwards” in restaurants would badly hurt industry workers and the larger economy. “We believe that restaurants need to remain open for indoor dining to serve our customers and continue employing tens of thousands of Marylanders.”

While the organization agrees with the need to wear face coverings inside and to maintain social distancing, Weston wrote: “Restricting restaurants will not stop the spread of COVID, public responsibility will.”

Weston argued that restaurants are “going above and beyond” to provide a safe environment to guests and are “the only businesses reported in the media that have voluntarily closed when an employee has tested positive for COVID.”

Business owners have expressed frustration at the lack of consistent guidance from local governments when it comes to safety.

“We as restaurant owners have been put in the position of making public health decisions,” said del Pesco. “That’s not a fair thing to ask of restaurant owners.”

For example, it’s up to owners to decide whether to close if an employee tests positive for COVID-19, and if so for how long. State guidelines right now only recommend that restaurants offer single use menus and take other precautions to prevent the spread of the coronavirus. But implementation of those recommendations varies widely from place to place.

“We’re playing a bit of Russian roulette if we don’t all operate by the same safety guidelines,” said Vitale. He thinks restaurants should be required to follow such guidelines, and penalized if they don’t. “If we’re going to open there should be some rules.”

At Aldo’s, staff take the temperature of guests as they arrive and sanitize seats between uses. “I still think we can do indoor dining safely,” said Vitale. He called it “a little draconian” to require restaurants to close again. “Obviously, the final judgment is going to be with health professionals.”

Vitale thinks some social distancing measures will be harder to enforce at bars than in restaurants. “For every drink you consume you lose one foot of social distancing,” he joked. “It’s a challenging thing when you’re in a bar setting.”

Both Vitale and del Pesco predict more hard times are to come for the industry. A $600 weekly supplement for unemployed workers wraps up this month, which del Pesco thinks could translate into more people spending less money in restaurants.

Carryout orders dropped at Larder once outdoor dining was permitted in Baltimore. While she avoided indoor dining at her small space, del Pesco opted to offer limited al fresco seating in the courtyard her business shares with neighboring Fadensonnen. Now, she says: “It’s so hot right now that nobody wants to sit outside.”

She’s shut down her cafe for three weeks while she brainstorms a path forward.